Europe

SCOTLAND (1981, 1989, 1991, 1995, 2001, 2003, 2007, 2013, 2017, 2023)

**EDINBURGH -- my favorite city!  Attended the University of Edinburgh and met Melissa there in 1981!

**An excellent resource for self-guided walks is a little pocket-guidebook called "Edinburgh, 40 Town And Country Walks" by Kerry Nelson, which can be found either in bookstores there, or on Amazon.com.  The other invaluable resource to get is the "Spokes Edinburgh Cycle Map", which can be found at most any bicycle shop in town.  This Spokes waterproof map clearly shows all of the walking/biking paths paths in the area, along with being just a great street map of the city.

**Many of Edinburgh's excellent museums and cultural sites are free to enter, such as the Scottish National Gallery and Academy near the train station, the National Museum of Scotland near the university, the National Portrait Gallery in New Town, and the National Records Office for genealogy research.

**THE ROYAL MILE -- moniker given to the cobble-stoned stretch between The Castle and Holyrood Palace, covering Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High St, and Canongate streets; very historic (worth doing a proper guided or self-guided walking tour);  the center of "old town"

EDINBURGH CASTLE -- imposing and impossible to miss, the castle is beautiful from the outside; but for my money "not all that" on the inside (the castles at nearby Sterling, Tantallon, Blair Atholl, and many others in England & Wales, such as Dover, Norwich, Harlech, Bamburgh, and Bodium, provide better a tour experience)

**ST. GILES CATHEDRAL -- in the middle of the Royal Mile, and dating back to the 12th century, it remains a "working church", so while free to enter, access may be restricted during times of services.  Just outside the cathedral lies the "Heart of Midlothian", a mosaic marking the site of Edinburgh's Old Tollbooth (some people spit on it for good luck, but really that's just gross).  The church also sits in Parliment Square, site of both the Mercat Cross statue and the supreme court buildings, as well as the pre-union former Scottish Parliment buildings.

**The SCOTCH WHISKY EXPERIENCE - like an amusement park for Scotch lovers, a bit pricey, but worthwhile touristy thing to do on the Royal Mile; 354 Castlehill Rd

**The ENSIGN EWART -- nice pub near the castle; 521 Lawnmarket

DEACON BRODIES -- because of its prime location on the Royal Mile, this large pub gets loads of tourists; 435 Lawnmarket

*The ALBANACH -- good whiskey bar, 197 High St.

*The ROYAL MILE TAVERN -- ornate gastropub; live acoustic music; 127 High St.

**WHISKI BAR & RESTAURANT -- great place for traditional music, food, whisky and beer; 119 High St.

The WORLD'S END -- spacious, classic pub serving cask conditioned ales; 2 High St.

The WAVERLY BAR -- good old cozy pub just off the Royal Mile, though maybe has seen better days; had my first real Scotch whisky experience here when one of my professors bought me Glenlivet 12 in 1981; 3 St Mary's St.

*The BOW BAR -- real ales and good whiskey selection, just off the Royal Mile heading down to Grassmarket; a bar for grown-ups.  80 West Bow

*The LAST DROP pub -- classic dingy pub in Grassmarket area for beer and pub food (chess set available); 74 Grassmarket

*The WHITE HART pub -- good beer and food; sometimes has folk music; 34 Grassmarket

*The FIDDLER'S ARMS -- another great option for good beer & food, with live Scottish music; 9 Grassmarket

**CASTLE ROCK FISH & CHIPS -- take-away chippie in Grassmarket; 87 Grassmarket

*STRAMASH -- hip nightclub, in an old church, featuring modern live acts; 207 Cowgate

BANNERMAN'S BAR -- unique, if not somewhat rough & grundgy, catacomb-like basement bar; longtime favorite haunt of students, with live music; 212 Cowgate

*WHISTLEBINKIE'S -- venerable live music basement bar for classic rock bands; good late night spot, no cover; 4 South Bridge

**GREYFRIARS CHURCH & KIRKYARD -- cool graveyard walk heading down towards Grassmarket and Cowgate areas of town; 26 Candlemaker's Row

*GREYFRIARS BOBBY'S BAR -- standard pub, but very popular with tourists because of its connection to Greyfriars Bobby's famous story of a dog's undying love for his master (immortalized in both a nearby statue, and a Disney movie); 30 Candlemaker's Row

**CELTIC JEWELLRY -- if  you're in the market for a really nice souvenir, on Greyfriars Pl.

*HERITAGE OF EDINBURGH -- quality gift shop with prices far below that found on Princes St; 100 South Bridge

*The SCOTLAND SHOP -- gift shop with prices below those found on Princes St; 107 South Bridge

POUNDSAVERS -- bargain five & dime store; 37 Nicholson St

**The ROYAL OAK -- tiny pub, often insanely crowded, but has McEwans 80% on tap & good folk music; 1 Infirmary St

**CAPTAIN'S BAR -- good bet for a decent pub with traditional music, 4 S. College St.

The PEARTREE -- pub with huge outdoor beergarden; 38 W Nicholson St

**SANDY BELL'S -- yet another excellent pub for live traditional music, near the university; 25 Forrest Rd

*MEADOWS PARK -- active city park, near the university

**UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH -- take a stroll into Teviot Row House student union building in Bistro Square for a glimpse/feel of the school

MALT SHOVEL INN -- longtime standard pub off of High St heading towards the train station (Waverly) and Princes St; 11 Cockburn St

*KRUA KHUN MAE -- good Thai restaurant, inbetween the station and the Royal Mile; 29 Cockburn St 

*The DORIC -- a little nicer, proper pub, close to the train station; 15 Market St

**PRINCES ST. GARDENS -- beautiful city park to stroll through in the shadow of the castle, across the street from the trendy shops of Princes St. and the West End

**BALMORAL HOTEL -- fine dining in the heart of the city; 1 Princes St

*OLD WAVERLY HOTEL -- cool old hotel, especially the top floor rooms with little round windows facing Princes St; 43 Princes St

ANGEL'S SHARE HOTEL BAR - stylish bar and restaurant at the west end of Princes St; 11 Hope St

**USQUABEE WHISKY BAR & LARDER-- unique, upscale basement "foodie" restaurant for modern twists on Scottish fare

The CALDONIAN HOTEL -- plush place to gawk at; west end of Princes St at Lothian Rd

OMAR KHAYYAM -- my friend Colin's favorite Indian restaurant; 1 Grosvenor Pl

**GUILFORD ARMS -- my favorite Rose St area pub and meeting place, really ornate and charming, but still a very comfortable pub; 1 Register St

*CAFE ROYAL -- a little more trendy and hustle-bustle than the Guilford, but still a great place for a drink; 19 Register St

*VOODOO ROOMS -- lush bar for cocktails, an eclectic menu, and live music cabaret rooms, with exotic, antique decor; 19 W Register St (around the corner and above Cafe Royal)

**AMARONE -- modern, upscale though reasonable and excellent Italian; 12 St Andrews Square)

*ABBOTTSFORD BAR & RESTAURANT -- classic Rose St bar; 3 Rose St

MILNES BAR -- traditional pub food and watering hole; Rose St & Hanover St

The BANK -- fancy fine dining and drinks; worth a looksy, but not really my cup of tea; on George St in the heart of New Town

*The OXFORD BAR -- traditional live music pub, made famous by fans of crime novelist Ian Rankin (of Rebus series fame) who flock there; 8 Young St

**The QUEENS ARMS -- my favorite straight up pub and meeting place in New Town for great beer & food; 49 Frederick St

*BAR NAPOLI -- small Italian place, good for late night pizza; 75 Hanover St

**EDEN LOCKE APARTMENTS -- fully equipped condos for a comfortable, longer stay; we got a great price by booking far in advance

*The CUMBERLAND BAR -- comfy pub with real ales, good food, and nice outdoor beer garden; 1 Cumberland St

**KAREN'S UNICORN -- classy Cantonese-Chinese fare; 8 Abercromby Pl

CLARK'S BAR -- nothing special really, but a friendly local watering hole; 142 Dundas St

**L'ALBA D'ORO -- superb fish & chips; 7 Henderson Row

**KAY'S BAR -- cozy little pub with a small-town feel and good whisky selection; 39 Jamaica St

**The BAILIE BAR -- fantastic neighborhood pub with very good food in Stockbridge; live bands on the weekends; 2 St Stephen St

STOCKBRIDGE MARKET -- Sunday farmer's market

*LOON FUNG -- good Chinese place in Cannonmills; @Warriston Cresent & Inverleith Row

The ORCHARD BAR & RESTAURANT -- upscale place in Cannonmills; Inverleith Row

**WATER OF LEITH PATH -- excellent hiking trail

*ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN -- has a nice tea room to cap a serene day out

**GLENOGLE SWIM CENTRE -- awesome old swimming pool, open to the public for swimming laps; Glenogle Rd

**CALTON HILL -- nice little hike for an excellent view of city, and home to several monuments

*The CONAN DOYLE -- classic real ale pub with good food, near the Playhouse Theater; 71 York Pl

**EDINBURGH PLAYHOUSE -- great theater for touring musicals and big name bands; Leith Walk & Greenside Pl

*LASAL -- Spanish tapas and paella, with live flamenco dancing on the weekends; 22 Union Pl

The STAND -- typical standup comedy club; 5 York Pl

*EASTSIDE CYCLES -- used bike shop, sometimes a better option than renting; London Rd

BROUGHTON STREET pubs -- several traditional pubs line the street, including MATHER'S, BARONY BAR, The BROUGHTON, and CASK & BARREL. Popular with the gay community.

**HOLYROOD PARK & ARTHUR'S SEAT -- good hiking and biking trails; a real mountain in the middle of the city

**The SHEEP HEID INN - on the back side of Holyrood Park (a bit out of the way), but a real classic for Sunday pub roast; dating back to the 1300's, this rambling pub also boasts a 10-pin bowling alley; 43 The Causeway in Duddingston

The SALSBURY ARMS -- pricey, but nice restaurant; 58 Dalkeith Rd

*ROYAL COMMONWEALTH POOL -- huge public swimming complex; 21 Dalkeith Rd

**The SHORE -- jazz bar in Leith, good beer and great vibe

*TEUCHTER'S LANDING -- lively large waterfront pub

*INNIS & GUNN -- tasting room for one of Edinburgh's best local brewery

*THE KING'S WARK -- excellent seafood in Leith's Shore area

*THE MINTLEAF -- good Indian & Thai restaurant, near a stop on the new trolley which connects Leith to city centre

*BIKETRAX -- great bike rental shop; 11 Lochrin Pl

*ATHLETIC ARMS -- legendary real ales like McEwans 80%-, also called "Diggers", in Dalry neighborhood; 1 Angle Park Terrace

*The CALEY ROOM -- upscale gastropub; 42 Angle Park Terrace

**CRAMOND -- quaint village at the NW edge of town where the Firth of Forth meets the River Almond; great destination for a bike ride along the Silverknowes Esplanade, or hike on the River Almond Trail

**--CRAMOND INN -- 300 year old pub; Samuel Smith's beers on tap (I love their Old Brewery Bitter), very good pub food (salmon dinners, seafood chowder)

*CRAMOND KIRK -- outdoor Roman Ruins on display

*CRAMOND MUSEUM -- small local museum, worth a quick peek

CRAMOND ISLAND -- reached by a sometimes above water causeway

SOUTH QUEENSFERRY -- gateway town to the Firth of Forth Bridge

RAILBRIDGE BISTRO -- in South Queensferry; 4 Newhalls Rd

OOB -- The GOLD MEDAL PUB - across from the Royal Commonwealth Pool in Newington

OOB -- The SPICE PAVILLION -- great Indian restaurant in New Town

OOB -- BLUE MOON CAFE on Broughton St

OOB -- LA RUSTICANA -- nice little Italian restaurant in New Town

OOB -- THE BLIND POET -- pub with live music, near the university

OOB -- The LOTHIAN -- Indian restaurant

OOB -- LAZIO'S -- Italian restaurant on Lothian Rd in Tollcross

OOB -- HENDERSON SALAD TABLE RESTAURANT -- vegetarian place on Hanover St

OOB -- RISSI'S FISH & CHIPS -- best in town; near the Meadows on Casuewayside St

OOB -- ARTHUR'S VIEW B&B where Melissa & I met, Salsbury View B&B where I lived in 1981 (Mrs. Telford's @64 Dalkeith Rd), and Mrs C's B&B where Melissa lived, and Mrs B's where the rest of the American students in our program were housed

**NATIONAL CYCLE ROUTE #7 -- tremendous ride or hiking trail, especially between Pitlochry and Callendar.  Generally following this route in a car also makes for a great scenic drive.

**KILLIN -- nice town at the west end of Loch Tay

**FALLS OF DOCHART INN -- classic pub with awesome fireplace; beautiful setting ovelooking the falls; good food; very friendly (I have their old pub sign on my deck)

*KILLIN HOTEL -- good place to stay; good restaurant for fresh salmon 01567-820296

CRAIGARD HOTEL -- decent restaurant

**KENMORE -- lovely village at the east end of Loch Tay

**KENMORE HOTEL -- beautiful hotel, said to be the oldest in Scotland; good spot for tea; The Burns Pub (displaying a hand-written Robert Burns poem on the wall) for drinks; excellent restaurant, 01887-830205

*COURTYARD BRASSERIE & BAR -- restaurant and pub at the Mains of Taymouth

*KENMORE CLUB -- timeshare rentals, great location; decent restaurant

**FERRYMAN'S INN -- good local restaurant & pub with outdoor waterfront tables, fantastic setting; just a short walk from the village to the Crannog Marina

*TAYMOUTH CASTLE -- not open to public, but you can take a pleasant walk around the grounds

**ACHARN FALLS & HERMIT CAVE hike

OBB -- BOAT HOUSE CAFE -- decent breakfast spot and coffee/tea shop

OBB -- KENMORE BOATING CENTER -- motor boat, canoe, and bicycle rentals

ARDEONAIG -- 10 miles west of Kenmore on the south side of Loch Tay

*ARDEONAIG HOTEL -- fancy-schmansy old hotel (reservations required for dinner), but a neat stop for a quick pint or spot of tea; 01567820400

**BRIDGE OF BALGIE -- tiny village that is the gateway to super-spectacular drives both to the east down Glen Lyon, and south over Ben Lawers!

*BRIDGE OF BALGIE TEAROOM -- excellent scones and tea

*Nice forest walk hikes from trailhead just east of town

*FORTINGALL -- home to a yew tree which is supposed to be the oldest living thing in Europe

ABERFELDY

**DEWAR'S DISTILLERY -- great whisky tour

**BIRKS OF ABERFELDY -- really nice waterfall hike (start in lower car park just south of town)

DUNKELD -- beautiful Cathedral on the banks of the River Tay

**HILTON HOTEL'S CLAY TARGET SHOOTING CENTER, 01350-728370

*TAYBANK HOTEL -- great music pub, fantastic setting

*PITLOCHRY, PERTHSHIRE -- on the train line from Edinburgh

**MOULIN INN -- very good hotel, pub and dining; a couple of miles outside of town

**EDRADOUR DISTILLERY -- smallest in Scotland; gives tours of their farm and operation

*GROVE COTTAGE B&B -- 10 Lower Oakfield Rd, 01796-472374

*KINLOCH RANNOCH -- beautiful area on Loch Rannoch; on the way via very narrow roads, you can take in the famous Queen's View overlook

*LOCH RANNOCH HOTEL -- gorgeous, but a bit stodgey and pricey

*ARBROATH -- quaint little town on the east coast

**OLD BREWHOUSE PUB -- great food & pub on the waterfront; they also rent rooms

**LUNAN HOTEL -- awesome country house with lovely grounds that's recently been turned into a hotel/restaurant/pub; close to the beach and off the beaten path, but well-worth the drive; great value too

**DONNOTTAR CASTLE -- spectacular setting, just south of Aberdeen

*GLASGOW -- has gradually shed its image as Edinburgh's Industrial Big Brother, to become quite a cultural & tourist destination in its own right.  The area around Queen St Rail Station and Buchannan St was heaving with people that last time I was there.

**The POT STILL -- one of the best whisky bars in the world; 154 Hope St

*RIVER CLYDE BIKE PATH -- connects to the National Cycle Path #7 to the north towards Balloch, and along Loch Lomond, which is quite nice

LUSS PIER -- scenic tourist stop

BALLOCH

*PALOMBOS B&B -- good place to stay the night; above a fish & chips diner which is also good

PRESTWICK (very near the airport)

**PARKSTONE HOTEL -- oceanfront property; room #14 has awesome views of Arran Island, 01292-477286

**RUPEE ROOM -- a modern Indian restaurant, great food and service, 26a Wellington Square, in neighboring Ayr, 01292-283-002

*ARISAIG -- on the spectacular west coast; filming location of Ben's beach in "Local Hero"

*ST. ANDREWS -- Woolen Mill, and legendary Golf course

*DUNVEGAN HOTEL PUB -- classic pub, near the golf course

*CRITERION PUB -- very good steak & ale pies, in city centre

NORTH BERWICK -- seaside town

**TANTALLON CASTLE 

*AULD HOOSE PUB

*ZITTO Italian restaurant

*TARBERT, pretty village, on the water

*TARBERT HOTEL -- good pub, food

**ARRAN ISLAND -- picturesque, wild feel; great getaway destination; known as "Scotland in miniature"

KILDONAN

*BREADALBANE HOTEL

BLACKWATERFOOT

*KINLOCH -- recommended for its food

**LOCHRANZA -- neat village with a cool castle in the harbour

**LOCHRANZA HOTEL -- excellent hotel, pub, and restaurant, with views of the castle; 01770-830223

Mim Finch has a cheap self-catering cottage in nearby Catacol 01770-830348

GREECE (1981, 1991, 2010)

**ATHENS - new metro system makes getting there a breeze, and once downtown, you can walk nearly everywhere

**Attalos Hotel - nice place, good service, awesome view from the rooftop bar

 **The Old Tavern of Psara's - in the Plaka at the corner of Erehtehos & Erotokritou St. This place occupies several buildings and outdoor terraces, so walk around and pick a spot which suits you.  Superb souvlaki, Greek salad, grilled octopus, and watermelon. 

**The Old Tavern Stamatopoulos - in the Plaka at 26 Lyssiou St. Features live traditional music nightly in their lovely outdoor garden.  The best moussaka ever, plus fantastic chicken souvlaki, watermelon, and Greek salad.

**For lunch, there are two great places, right next to each other, at the NE corner of Monastiraki Square (an interesting 10 minute walk due west of Syntagma Sq.) on the south side of Mitropoleos St.  The one closet to the square (I'm not sure what it is called) has beef gyros to die for.  And the one next door (called Thanasis) has super souvlaki of all types, and wonderful fried potatoes.

*Taverna de Bpaxakia - a pleasant little place, set back a little off the main street at about 23 Apostolou Paulou

*New Acropolis Museum

*CitySightSeeing Athens -- open top double-decker tour bus, gives a good orientation and overview of the central area for 18euro, 90 minutes, hop-on hop-off good for 24 hours, leaves from the SW corner of Syntagma Square

*Pella Inn - stayed here years ago (has changed hands); cheap, good views

PARIKIA, PAROS (Aegean island) - ferry from Piraeus (TIP: pay the extra for a reserved seat)

**HOTEL DINA - great location in heart of old town on Market St., good value, hospitality; 0284-21325

**APOLLON GARDEN RESTAURANT - excellent meal, service and atmosphere

*DIONYSOS RESTAURANT - very good food and service

*THE PIRATE - bohemian jazz bar

**KOLIMBITHRES BEACH -- odd rock outcroppings, beautiful setting, good Taverna, make this a memorable day out

*POUNDA BEACH, or the nearby ALIKI (Golden) BEACH

*Acropolis Car Rental -- near the ferry dock, cheap, no hassle (makes for easy access to the beaches)

*NAXOS (Aegean island) - a short ferry ride from Paros; great winding old market area

**Piguantiko Grill House - one of many good restaurants along the harbor

**Naxos Castle

**Temple of Apollo - easy walk from town center

**SPETSEI (aka Spetses) - island off the Patras coast by way of Piraeus ferry

**PASETORI'S - excellent fish dishes; where the locals eat

**AEGINA BEACH - you must rent a bike (which is easy to do) or moped to get there, but a

  beautiful beach and good food awaits

*SANTORINI (Thira)

**Hotel Keti - great place, unforgettable location, hanging off the cliff (involves a little hike to get there)

**The Red Beach - have to hike in, but well worth it

*Perissa Beach - famous black sand